Get your wooden ware protected with Hive Guard!
Hive dipping is a proven method for preserving wooden beekeeping equipment and sterilizing it against diseases like American Foul-brood (AFB). This technique is widely adopted in countries such as New Zealand and Australia, where it serves as an effective alternative to painting or staining. Here is a fact sheet from the New Zealand Government on the process.
Dipping is not just for preservation—it’s also a proven method for sterilizing wooden hive components, especially when dealing with American Foul-brood (AFB) risks.
This process, when done correctly, not only extends the life of your gear but protects your apiary from devastating disease outbreaks.
Working with paraffin wax at high temperatures comes with serious risks—especially burns and fire hazards—so strict safety precautions are essential.
Protective gear is non-negotiable.
Always wear industrial-grade rubber gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection. Handling hot equipment or wax without protection can result in severe injury.
Use proper tools.
A solid pair of long-handled tongs is a must for removing wooden-ware from the dip tank safely and steadily.
Heat-up time matters.
It can take 1.5 to 2 hours to bring the tank up to the target temperature of 302°F (150°C). Be patient and never rush the process.
Understand flash points.
Paraffin wax has a flash point of 356°F (180°C). That means if the temperature creeps too high, it can ignite—especially with open flame heating setups. Keep a close eye on the thermometer at all times.
Temperature control is critical.
If your system uses an open flame, avoid spikes in heat. Some experienced beekeepers use a light sprinkle of water in the firebox to reduce heat quickly—but this must be done with extreme caution.
For safer and more stable results, consider wax dippers heated by gas or electricity. Though they may cost more to operate, they offer better control and significantly reduce fire risk.
Why Dip?
PAINT: Overview
Cons (−):
Pros (+):
Wax dipped beehives outlast everything else in the industry! These hives are almost maintenance free and have a natural wood finish that lasts for years.
Just a little bit about preserving wooden ware. For me one of the worst things I can bring myself to do is to buy replacement wooden ware. Let's face it beehive parts are expensive no matter how you look at it. Some beekeepers build their own; it's a huge investment in time, materials, and equipment. I and many others like to buy equipment un-assembled, put it together myself and finish it myself. I would prefer to buy my wooden-ware once and any additional purchases are to support our growing apiary.
This is where wax dipping of wooden ware comes in. For the past few years, I have been staining all my wooden ware. Those hives look fantastic when you put them out there in the bee yard! The following spring, well, not so much, let alone two or three springs! For the past six to seven years, I have been doing (way too much) research on paraffin dipping of wooden ware. Some of the best points that I have learned is that some keepers have dipped their hives back in the late 90's and they are still going strong, you even hear of equipment older than that still doing well. In a worst-case scenario when you have a die-out (yes, it happens to everyone) you get an opportunity to re-dip a hive. On the bright side of that, you toss it in with your new hardware, very little scraping, and no sanding of old paint or stain. One of the other most important points is that a hive "deep fried" in paraffin wax is sterilized. If by some chance that die-out was caused by some virus or bacteria the heat will kill most things and what doesn't die will be encapsulated in the wax within the wood.
The process: Wax dipping is performed by heating a mixture of paraffin wax and rosin or micro-crystalline wax heated to 150-160 degrees Celsius (302-320 deg. F). The wooden ware is then fully immersed in the wax for about 10 minutes. This allows for the wax to permeate the wood and displace all the moisture. Hives can be painted after dipping as long as the wood is still hot, it will absorb the paint along with the wax left on the surface. If they are left natural, they will not be "waxy" or sticky, but they will repel water.
Most times someone who is dipping wooden ware will wait until there is enough work to keep the process running for a few hours or even days. Usually, it takes nearly a day to bring six or eight hundred pounds of wax up to temperature. Our tank holds about 680 lbs. of wax and takes about four hours to bring up to temperature. So, if you're going to get this done, make sure you plan ahead and stay in contact with the folks doing the dipping. If you miss an opportunity, it may mean waiting for another few weeks until we have enough wooden ware stacked up to make it worthwhile.
We should start our first run sometime in late January and knock out all the wooden ware ordered over the winter. Follow up sessions will be as the demand requires and weather permits. We encourage everyone who is considering purchasing wax dipped wooden ware to get their orders in as early as possible. We want to avoid a backlog during the January schedule due to getting everything assembled and ready for the dipping process. Winter is the time for building equipment and getting ready for when spring arrives.
Cost, yep this is always the big question. First let me tell you a little about the equipment and the materials. For many folks that have a few hives or even a few dozen hives the required equipment will discourage you from wax dipping. The process is also inherently dangerous. The wax is heated well above its flash point for ignition (burning) and safety measures are a must.
This is probably the place where I should say
("Please don't try this at home")
Back to equipment, we have a custom-built stainless-steel tank that holds 680+ pounds of wax. The tank has a weighted lid that is also a fire suppressor. We also have several fire extinguishers on standby. Our method of heating the wax is by a custom-made propane gas burners under the tank. This setup has proven the most economical design for us.
After calculating gas consumption for warm-up and process then adding in wax, labor, and other supplies, it is easy to see that the pricing of wax dipped equipment is a bit higher than standard equipment. Surprisingly though we can wax dip our hives for about the same price as painting them! In the long run the best value is to double or triple the life of your equipment.
Talk to us about wax dipping your equipment. If you build it yourself or have it, bring it by, and of course if you are buying new, we would be happy to supply you with high quality wax dipped equipment.
How much does dipping cost?
Can I dip used equipment?
Yes, as long as it’s clean and dry. Please remove all dirt, dust, cobwebs, and dead bees—these can clog the bottom of the tank.
Important: If you suspect AFB or another disease, contact us before bringing anything. The tank can sterilize AFB spores, but burning the boxes is still best practice in those cases.
Can I dip painted equipment?
Yes, but we prefer unpainted items to avoid contaminating the tank.
You’re welcome to paint the boxes immediately after dipping—while they’re still warm—for best results. We can provide a tarp and water for cleanup, but painting is your responsibility.
Does the equipment have to be assembled?
No. You can bring un-assembled boxes or wooden-ware. The wax saturates the wood and won’t affect the fit or size.
Can I dip metal parts like screened bottoms or telescoping lids?
You can, but be aware:
Functionality remains the same—it just may not look as clean.
Is there anything that can’t be dipped?
Yes—please avoid bringing anything with:
Scheduling & Contact Info
Please call or email us directly to discuss dipping or to schedule an appointment.
PLEASE DO NOT USE THE CONTACT FORM—that is strictly for inquiries about structural bee removals.
Building boxes
Jones Family Bee Removal LLC
Tupelo Way, Antioch, California 94509, United States
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